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Labrador Training – Breed Information

Part of successful labrador training comes from understanding the breed, it's temperament and characteristics. So let's begin...

Labradors are a lively, carefree and attentive dog breed. They are very alert and playful and enjoy lavishing affection on their owner. Labs are extremely lovable and will work hard to please.

Labradors are highly intelligent which makes Labrador training easy. Furthermore, the breed excels as show dogs and at dog sporting events. In fact, Labradors are happy in the great outdoors and love to swim. This is because the breed was bred for hunting both on land and in water. A Labrador is very energetic and is the perfect compliment to an active family.

Labradors is another name for Labrador Retrievers and is, therefore, the same breed.

The History of Labradors

Contrary to popular belief, Labradors were developed in Newfoundland and not Labrador. In fact, the first prototype of the breed was created by crossing a Newfoundland with a small water dog, and was originally known as the St. John’s Water Dog.

The first time that Labs became known as Labradors was when they were called the name by the Duke of Malmesbury in the early 19th century. This was also the same time that Labs became popular with the British Royals who value the breed for their sporting characteristics, which proved useful for hunting.

The Labrador breed that we know today was developed in 1878, after interbreeding with other Retriever breeds took place. Luckily the interbreeding did not cause the Labrador to lose their most desirable qualities or their popularity.

Labradors were recognized in 1903 by the UK Kennel Club and in 1917 by the American Kennel Club. Currently, they are still one of the most popular breed of dog.

The Basics of Labradors

Labradors are a devoted breed that can be a wonderful asset to a family. Their friendly and lovable temperament makes them good with children, visitors and other family pets. They can also be extremely flexible with different environments, as long as they receive sufficient exercise and attention.

Labs have a strong build, plenty of energy, and high intelligence. They are natural hunters and are equipped with an exceptional sense of smell. These traits are what have made them ideal hunting dogs, police dogs, rescue dogs, and even seeing-eye dogs.

Even though Labradors are an impeccable breed, they aren’t for everyone. There are certain traits about these dogs that simply do not compliment the needs of some dog owners.

For instance, while Labs have a shorthaired coat, they still shed quite a bit. Furthermore, their strong build and medium size can make them hard to control if they are not properly trained, and even growing Lab puppies can easily knock down small children.

In addition, since Labradors are friendly dogs, they are by no means guard dogs. This isn’t to say that a Lab wouldn’t protect you if it sensed you were in danger, but they also won’t bare their teeth at an intruder either. Therefore, if you are thinking about getting a Labrador to protect you, think again.

All in all, Labradors are remarkable dogs that make excellent pets, friends and family members. Give them a little love, and they’ll return it back ten fold.


Red Lumps In Your Labrador’s Eyes:


Your Labrador’s eyes should be smooth, clear and bright, without any blemishes or bumps on the pristine surface. A red lump on the inside corner of the eye is definitely a problem - although not one you should panic about.

Dogs (as well as other pets like cats) have a unique structure called the third eyelid, a thin membrane that protrudes from the lower inside portion of the eye and swipes tears across the surface. Behind the third eyelid are tear and lymphatic glands. Periodically one of these glands may protrude over the top of the third eyelid, forming a red bulge. Vets call this condition cherry eye, and it can cause heavy tearing and frequent blinking.

Cherry eye usually occurs when tissues that hold the gland in place are weaker than they should be. It is quite common in young labradors, especially Saint Bernards, German shepherds. Great Danes, cocker spaniels, beagles, and some of the short-faced breeds. Red lumps can also be caused by problems with the third eyelid itself. The eyelid contains a “spine” of cartilage. If this cartilage is somewhat mis-formed - a condition that vets call eversion - it will stick out slightly and irritate the surface of the eye.

Both cherry eye and third-eyelid eversion are quite rare in older labradors. Cancers, however, do develop later in life and sometimes they cause an irritated-looking red lump somewhere in the eye.

Serious eye problems should always be treated by a vet, but sometimes you have to act quickly at home to protect your pet from further damage. If your dog gets cherry eye, for example, and for some reason you can’t get to a vet, you may have to readjust the popped out gland yourself.

It sounds scary, but it is often easy to do. Sliding the eyelids up over the “cherry” will usually cause the gland to pop back into place. Put your finger or thumb at the edge of the lower eyelid near the nose. Applying gentle pressure, slide both the outer and inner eyelids over the swelling. This only works if you do it the very same day it popped out. If the lump doesn’t pop back into place easily or if your Labrador seems to be in a lot of pain, give up right away and do your best to get to a vet. Sometimes putting the gland back in place will correct the problem for good. But in many cases, pets will need surgery to eliminate the underlying cause.


Read This List Of Possible Aging Problems If Your Labrador Is Getting Older
January 17, 2007 on 6:15 am | In Labrador Articles | No Comments

Foul Breath, Plaque, & Gingivitis: All of these are common in old age, especially if you have not taken care to keep your Labrador’s teeth clean throughout her life. Regular dental checkups may be necessary to ensure that any serious problems are quickly treated.

Skin Problems: Even small scratches may take a long time to heal as the elasticity of the skin diminishes. Tiny wart-like bumps may appear on the dog’s face and other parts of the Labrador’s body. Hair may more readily shed as the follicles become less active. None of these changes is cause for alarm unless it seems to get in the dog’s way. Scratching a bump, for example, may infect it, and it will then require attention.

Tumors & Cysts: Usually these are benign cysts and fatty tumors. As older dogs are more susceptible to cancer, however, you should always have any lump or growth checked by the veterinarian.

Heart Disease: An older Labrador’s heart often remains strong and healthy. As older dogs are prone to heart disease, however, do become aware of the symptoms of heart disease. Early detection can prevent unnecessary pain and premature death.

Shaky, Unsure Gait: Legs that are usually sturdy and agile may begin to shake with age. Your dog may have difficulty getting up after a long nap. The usual spring in her step is a little less pronounced. Due to a gradual weakening of the nerves and muscles in the legs, these changes are to be expected. If these changes seem unusually bothersome to your dog, or if your dog has had teeth infections, kidney illness, or other health problems that indicate arthritis, your dog’s age may have made him susceptible to arthritic disease.

Diminished Appetite: You may notice that your dog is eating less and losing weight. This is often a normal result of the aging process; the dog’s sense of smell and taste weakens, and she thus becomes less interested in food. A decrease in weight may also result from muscles becoming flabby once an older dog cuts back on her athletic activities.

Increased Water Intake: An older dog may need up to two to three times more water than a younger dog. This is because her kidneys do not function as well and need the water to maintain their efficiency. Other signs of kidney disease may also appear, since older dogs are vulnerable to this illness. Contact your veterinarian if you suspect your older dog may have a serious problem with this vital organ.

Constipation: In older labradors, constipation may be brought on by a loss of muscle tone in the bowel area, or, in older male dogs, by an enlargement of the prostate. Adding bran cereal, liver, or vegetables to the diet of an older dog who is constipated may provide the laxative effect needed to get rid of the problem.

Changes In Behavior: A Labrador who in her younger years loved to visit new places or who always became excited at changes will now suddenly become anxious and moody when anything upsets her daily routine. There is little you can do but be patient, and give your dog the care she needs in return for the years of companionship she has given you.
Rawhide Chews For Your Labrador
January 13, 2007 on 10:15 am | In Labrador Articles | No Comments

Giving rawhide chews to labradors is a very common snack that is also known to help strengthen their teeth and gums. But is it healthy? Can these chews actually be bad for our precious pets?

You’ll hear tales of all kinds; for example, that feeding labradors sugar will give them worms or that allowing them to stick their heads out the window of a moving car will cause blindness. The truth is that sugar causes obesity, not worms; and that dogs leaning out of cars don’t go blind, but they often do end up as roadkill.

Rawhide chews, on the other hand, are among the great inventions of the twentieth century. They are like pacifiers we gave our children when they were babies. Without rawhides, my dog’s would swallowed my children’s toys instead. The bottom line truth is that rawhides give chewing dogs a wholesome activity.
Puppy Mills: The Dark Secret Behind Labradors That Are Sold In Pet Stores
January 9, 2007 on 10:15 am | In Labrador Articles | No Comments

For at least four decades puppy mills have been one of the most shameful embarrassments of the dog world. Many AKC critics are particularly voiced that the organization hasn’t done more to attack the problem, arguably one of the most cruel and pervasive examples of animal abuse in the nation’s history yet the average pet shopping consumer does not realize this.

By Humane Society estimates, puppy mills are almost the exclusive suppliers of the approximately half-million puppies sold annually through America’s pet stores. There are an estimated 5000 puppy mills in the country. They are concentrated mostly in six midwestern states - Kansas, Missouri, Nebraska, Iowa, Oklahoma, and Arkansas - referred to as “the puppy mill archipelago” by the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). California is cracking down on puppy mills. Kansas, on the other hand, has made it a felony to sneak into a puppy mill and photograph or otherwise document its activities.

Pet store operators will tell you their labradors don’t come from puppy mills. The ASPCA estimates that only about ten percent of all pet store dogs are non-puppy-mill animals. Numerous investigations have documented the often barbaric conditions of these operations. puppy mill labradors are found being raised on wire, like chickens, or in cramped quarters, like veal. Dams and sires live their entire lives in cages and are bred nonstop from the time they are six months old until five or six years of age. When females have mothered themselves to exhaustion and their litter sizes drop, they are often killed. ASPCA reports that the mothers’ bodies are sometimes fed to the surviving puppy mill dogs. American Humane, another animal-welfare organization, reports that one puppy mill breeder fed dogs “the heads of slaughtered animals.” There are puppy millers who breed hundreds and even thousands of puppies a year.

Labrador puppies born in these operations are often shipped during infancy - at four weeks of age - in containers so tightly packed that suffocation is not uncommon; they are frequently poorly nourished and rarely given appropriate veterinary care. It is estimated that about a half-million puppy mill pups perish each year before they reach the pet store. Forget about such niceties as socialization and breeding away from hereditary disease. A May 1990 study by the California Assembly concluded that forty-eight percent of the puppies sold in the state’s pet stores were ill or carrying disease at the time they were purchased. The study also found that puppies imported from puppy mills outside California were three times more likely to have problems than puppies raised locally.
Protein: The Most Important Food Item You Can Feed Your Labrador
January 6, 2007 on 7:45 am | In Labrador Articles | No Comments

Protein is the most expensive ingredient in dog foods. Its source often determines the quality of the food. Animal sources are superior. Unfortunately, there’s not enough meat around to satisfy all the pet dogs in the world, so the producers substitute vegetable protein.

The difference between vegetable and animal protein? Vegetable is often harder to digest, and more of it has to be consumed to meet the Labrador’s needs. More food equals more stool. The best advice is to find a food that uses more animal protein than vegetable protein and requires smaller rations to meet the MDR.

More protein is not always better. High protein diets are used for show or working labradors. If your Labrador’s mellow or spends many hours alone, feeding a high protein diet will make her jittery and hyper. When reading the label, watch for key words like gluten meal and animal protein. These indicate animal protein sources. Words like corn, soy, and rice all tell you the protein is from vegetable sources.
Feeding Your Labrador: Are You Confused?
January 3, 2007 on 5:45 am | In Labrador Articles | No Comments

What daily quantity should a Labrador be fed? This question is no longer properly answered with the “pound of food per 50 pounds of body weight” foods are available today, so we must ask, “What kind of food?” Is it dry, semi-moist or canned? The best indicator is based on the dog’s output. In other words, the quantity should produce firm and well-formed feces. Any tendency of the stools to become loose indicates overfeeding in a healthy dog. Conversely, a stool so dry that it appears to have a chalky coating indicates underfeeding. The quantity fed should be increased or decreased by 10% in such cases.

In growing Labrador puppies, you should feed them for formed stools. Further, the number of feedings should be the same as the number of bowel movements per day. This attunes the input frequency with the metabolic rate of the pup. It also results in up to 6 feedings per day for some pups, usually only for a couple of weeks. Most owners agree that this feeding schedule is not quite as inconvenient as a Labrador puppy that is not house-trained.

Pregnant or lactating females with puppies require especially large quantities of high-quality protein. The old wives’ suggestion of “eating for two” tends to carry over into feeding of pregnant female dogs, who often eat for ten pups. The uninformed breeder often merely offers 2-4 times as much of the dog’s standard diet. The trouble with this practice is that the huge quantity of a commercial diet usually results in some degree of obesity if the female actually eats it.

This tendency toward obesity stems from the fact that many popular diets are usually significantly higher in carbohydrate than in protein. If the pregnant dog does not metabolize the vastly increased carbohydrate intake, she usually gets fat. This can lead to a number of problems, such as sick or stillborn pups, or prolonged labor.

Pregnant and lactating Labrador females (up to 4 weeks postpartum), as well as their pups, require increased amounts of a high-protein diet. It might be more sensible to meet this need by supplementing, rather than simply feeding them more of the usual diet. Addition of protein in the form of raw liver, cooked eggs, milk, dicalcium phosphate and an oil containing vitamins A and D, in addition to a daily general vitamin-mineral supplement, satisfies the special dietary requirements of mother and offspring, and avoids overfeeding with its possible side-effects of loose stools and obesity.
Fatal Labrador Issues: Gastric Dilatation & Gastric Torsion Complex
December 31, 2006 on 5:30 am | In Labrador Articles | No Comments

Gastric dilatation and Gastric torsion complex is a condition that may occur in any breed, at any age. Commonly known as bloat, this syndrome is most often encountered among large and deep-chested breeds. The complex results from the dog’s inability to pass food (or other ingesta) through the stomach into the lower intestines, or lack of capacity for emesis (vomiting) if torsion has occurred.

Initial clinical signs of gastric torsion can occur suddenly, normally a few hours after a meal. The dog may become restless, excessively salivate and have unproductive attempts at vomiting. As the abdomen distends, pain manifests. Reluctant to move, the dog may also refuse to lie down. As the case advances in severity, the onset of shock becomes evident with pale mucous membranes, a rapid heartbeat (tachycardia) and a weakened pulse. A dog with this condition is headed toward a rapid and painful death. This is a true veterinary emergency.

Dogs that have survived are prone to recurrence. Studies of gas present in afflicted labradors‘ stomachs indicate a primary cause to be accumulated swallowed air. Gulping eager eaters appear to swallow more air than finicky, picky eaters. Exercise shortly after eating has also been associated with gastric torsion. Other factors that may produce gastric torsion can be general anesthesia, abdominal surgery, traumatic injury, spinal injury, overeating, ingestion of foreign materials, whelping, vomiting and malignant tumors.

Recurrence of the torsion complex because of dietary indiscretion is inevitable unless faulty feeding practices are amended. The dog should be fed light brothy meals three to five times daily for approximately three days before establishing a more normal diet. Relatively soft foods should be offered no less than three times daily over the following few days. When “normal” feeding resumes, the dog should be fed at least twice daily, and in small quantities each time. Raising the food dish on a platform to a level of the lower chest is also recommended, helping to reduce air intake during feeding.

There are a few points that bear emphasis with gastric torsion. The time factor in discovery and treatment by a veterinarian is critical because the dog’s total collapse is imminent with this condition. An immediate diagnosis by a veterinarian is imperative to effect initiation of rapid treatment for survival. Delays in presentation, diagnosis and treatment must be avoided or the condition will prove fatal.

Once successfully treated, labradors can continue to lead normal healthy and productive lives providing daily concessions are made. Animals suffering an occurrence of this complex must lead as stress-free lives as possible. They should be fed several times daily throughout their lives. They should not be fed dry food alone: any kibble must be fed “wet.” Dry food that does not swell once water and meat are added to it is recommended. Certain labradors may, however, require a special diet that is available only through the veterinarian.
False Pregnancy: Understanding When Your Labrador Goes Through Pseudocyesis
December 27, 2006 on 2:45 pm | In Labrador Articles | No Comments

Your female Labrador was in heat about two months ago, and now she’s behaving as if she were pregnant. Her breasts are somewhat enlarged and have a thin yellowish fluid or actual milk coming from them. She seems unusually nervous and excitable, can’t settle down, and may even try to make a “nest.” Finally you notice her carrying a shoe, toy, or other object around with her, much as she would a newborn Labrador puppy. But wait a minute! She hasn’t been near a male dog - she can’t be pregnant! And she isn’t. She is going through a false pregnancy.

When your female dog is in heat, a yellow body is formed in the ovary, whether or not conception has taken place. During pregnancy, this remains active and functional, secreting the hormone, progesterone, until whelping time. In the non-pregnant dog, this usually degenerates in about a month. For reasons still not well understood, the corpus deteriorates much slower in some females, and its prolonged presence is believed to trigger the false pregnancy. Symptoms can vary from being hardly noticeable, through all those mentioned in the previous paragraph, to severe painful engorgement of the breasts with milk freely flowing from them.

Pseudocyesis occurs at all ages from the first Labrador puppy heat on. It may happen only once and never recur, but in most cases, once started, it tends to recur about two months after each, or most, of the successive heat periods. This can be a special problem in the older dog. The additional stress it produces can result in vomiting, diarrhea, self-nursing, inflammation and infection of one or more breasts, and loss of appetite. Dogs with chronic kidney disease may be stressed enough to precipitate a uremic crisis and renal failure. Dogs with cardiac disease may develop potentially dangerous abnormal heart rhythms.

Mild to moderate cases will run their course in three to eight weeks, depending on how rapidly the corpus luteum degenerates, and require little treatment. The more severe cases will be helped by alternate hot and cold moist compresses on the swollen breasts to relieve the pain. Therapy with estrogens, testosterone, and progesterone injections have all been effective to varying degrees in terminating the false pregnancy. If fever or breast infection is present antibiotics will also be prescribed.

There is no hard evidence to prove it, but many veterinarians in companion animal practice are of the opinion that repeated false pregnancies, especially the severe ones, are likely to predispose your dog to the eventual development of pyometra, a serious and hazardous uterine infection. For that reason, your family veterinarian may recommend an ovariohysterectomy for your Labrador.
A Labrador’s Favorite Place: The Park (Part 2)


City parks have some wonderful challenges for training if you use your imagination.

For example, look and find an empty trash bin in the park, tip it over on its side and teach your Labrador pup to jump over it. Start a few feet from the trash bin and run toward it while holding the motivator close to his nose so he will follow it. When he approaches the bin, use the hand in collar technique (place your fingers between his neck and collar with your fingers pointing up), lift him forward and say “Hup,” as he climbs over the bin. After he has gone over the garbage bin, circle around and make him climb over from the other side and place him in a sit. Do this a few times so he is comfortable with this maneuver. With continued practice, he will eventually make a clean jump over the bin. Smaller or less agile labrador dogs will only be able to climb over it.

If he is shy about going over the bin, then place him on top of it so he will feel comfortable touching the garbage bin with his paws. With your right hand holding the motivator, lead him downward to come off the garbage bin. Repeat this pattern a few times to build his confidence level. After a few repetitions, your pup will feel comfortable climbing over the garbage bin.

Large boulder-like rocks can often be found in many parks. While walking your dog, teach him to jump on the rock. Again, you will need a motivator to get him to jump up there. Put him in a Sit-Stay or Stand-Stay position. This is a good exercise because it gives him a job to do - it keeps him from moving any further during a walk, especially through congested cross paths.

Park benches are also a great training tool. Teach your Labrador to jump over a bench using the same method as making him jump over a garbage bin. You can also teach him to crawl under a park bench. And you can train him to sit every time you approach a park bench with someone sitting on it. This teaches him not to pull toward strangers in the park.

A park is a good place to practice the hide and seek game with a whistle. Have your friend hold your puppy back while you run and hide behind a tree or some bushes and whistle for your Labrador. This exercise will get your puppy to pay more attention to you as he panics and tries to find you. This game is great because you are setting the foundation for him to come to you whenever you whistle. In all of these exercises, you are using the natural environment of the park as an agility course for your dog.
A Labrador’s Favorite Place: The Park (Part 1)


Parks are the most popular spots in the city for owners to take their labradors. It’s the one place where owners can let their labradors run loose and play with other dogs. Many dog owners like going to the parks because it gives them a chance to meet and chat with other dog owners. Most dog owners are amused by the fact that they remember the names of the different dogs but not the names of the owners.

Though I have no problem with dogs playing with each other in the parks, I do have a problem with owners who just congregate together and don’t play with their dogs. Dog owners often forget that they should be the main focus of their dog, not other dogs. The park is such a great environment to train a dog and owners who do no more than just stand together talking do their dogs a disservice. This also gives a Labrador a false sense of total freedom - your dog blocks you out while playing with other dogs.

You can alleviate this problem by occasionally whistling for your dog to come to you while standing with the other owners. When he comes to you, praise him and then let him play with the other dogs once again. By doing this, your dog learns that even though he is coming to your call, it doesn’t mean you are going to leash him and take him home. You don’t want your dog to associate coming to you with killing his good time. That is why owners have a hard time calling their dogs back to them in the park. Dogs know that the only time they are called by their owners is when it’s time to leave.

Instead of just standing there with the other owners, move quietly away from them and stand off to the side. When your dog looks for you among the group of owners, he will be alarmed that you are not there. You are preying on his sense of insecurity - he is going to panic as he looks for you. This is good - you want to be your Labrador’s main focus, not other dogs in the park. He will come to you full of excitement at having found you.

Another problem with groups of owners getting together in the park is that you can get some bad advice. When you get your dog, you will quickly discover how many owners act like experts about dogs, and you will get a lot of free advice. You will get all kinds of training and medical opinions - some of it good and some just a lot of old myths.

Labrador puppy owners need to understand the pack mentality of dogs. Any group of dogs playing in a park form a pack mentality within ten minutes of being together. Now if a puppy runs into the pack, the dynamic is thrown off balance and tension can easily develop. The dogs tower over the puppy to investigate. Some dogs don’t like puppies, especially if the puppy is hyper or cocky. There’s a good chance such pups can get bit. Pups also tend to get trampled on and can physically get hurt when playing with mature dogs. That is why I don’t like owners taking their Labrador puppies to parks to play with big dogs. puppies need to play with puppies in their own peer group. You wouldn’t let your five-year-old child play football with thirteen-year-old kids, so why have your pup play with mature dogs?




A Labrador Can Have Zits?

Yes, believe it or not, labradors can develop them just as a person can. Canine acne can pop up on your dog’s face, chin, or lower lip. It appears like small black spots that, if not washed regularly, may turn into crusty patches that cake and bleed.

Your dog won’t worry about acne preventing him from getting a date, but he may be bothered if the acne builds up. He may try to scratch it off with his toenails, causing the area to bleed and possibly turn raw. Dogs with oily skin are more susceptible to getting acne than their drier-skinned counterparts, and a dog’s food bowl may be part of the problem. Here are a few dog acne prevention tips:

1. Keep your Labrador’s chin clean and free of the unsightly blemishes by washing it with a soft cloth and warm water once or twice a day. If the area has begun to bleed, wash it with some hydrogen peroxide on a cotton ball to fight infection.

2. A way to help your Labrador from developing zits or to keep a current case of it from getting worse is to avoid plastic food bowls. Plastic bowls retain oils that add to your dog’s acne problem, as his chin rubs against the bowl when he’s busy snarfing down dinner. Replace those oil-ridden plastic bowls with aluminum, glass, or lead-free pottery and china bowls.

3. Wash you dog’s food bowls daily with a mild dish detergent to remove oily deposits.
A Condition Known As Incontinence & What It Means To Your Labrador Dog

What happens when your Labrador loses the ability to control his bowel movements? What do you do when you realize that your well-trained life companion who has been potty trained for years all of a sudden starts urinating and defecating all over the house? Well instead of punishing your dog and making matters worse, you may want to look into the fact that he may have a condition known as incontinence.

Incontinence is the inability to control urination and/or defecation. The same term is also used to describe the reduced control that is sometimes apparent in geriatric animals. The condition can be very upsetting to owners, as it warrants constant vigil to avoid cleanups. Many owners believe that the affected animal is either uncomfortable or in poor health. Some owners are repulsed and unable to cope with this type of problem.

Incontinent dogs should be carefully examined by a veterinarian to determine whether the problem is due to old age (lack of sphincter control) or a condition that can be treated. Urinary incontinence could be caused by conditions of the bladder and urethra. A relatively common cause in older spayed female labradors is reduced estrogen levels. This type of condition may respond well to hormone treatments.

Fecal incontinence has been associated with damaged anal sphincter muscles, which perhaps can be surgically repaired, or injuries to the lumbar or pelvic area, with results from a nerve damage. Nerve disorders usually are difficult to treat. Where loose stools associated with improper feeding are a part of the problem, dietary adjustments may be helpful.

The saddest situation is one in which the dog owner, unaware of possible corrective measures, believes that incontinence cannot be cured and automatically warrants euthanasia. Even if the problem cannot be handled medically, some minor adjustments may make the incontinent dog easier to live with, and thus prevent the injustice of sending a faithful companion to his death.

Take this example: An 11 year old, spayed, female labrador dog is healthy in all other respects, but had had urinary and fecal incontinence for about 1 1/2 months. There are several things that a veterinarian might do for the dog. With a diet change and medical treatment, the incontinence could be reduced to the point where the diapers and bloomers were working acceptably. Other affected dogs have responded well to paper training or installation of a pet door.

A 14-Pint Checklist For Newborn Labrador Puppies

When your newborn Labradorpuppies arrive, you can quickly assess their health by utilizing the following physical checklist:

1. Head and neck: check mobility, rooting reflex and position at rest and during movement.

2. Skull: check size, shape and the fontanelle.

3. Ears: check size and position.

4. Eyes, eyelids: check for neonatal ophthalmia. Eyelids may open early: observe carefully for signs of inadequate tear (duct) production.

5. Nose: check nostrils’ shape; presence of fluids (clear discharge, milk, mucus, blood, pus).

6. Mouth: check for cleft palate (puppies usually cannot nurse effectively and milk exudes from the nostrils and mouth, and the puppy cries plaintively).

7. Skin: check for wounds caused by an overexcited dam; hydration, gently pinching the skin directly behind the occiput; the coat and weight for indications of a premature birth; paws for bedding irritation or deformity.

8. Legs and joints: check for deformity, soft tissue and joint swelling indicative of injury; freedom of mobility range.

9. Tail: check for deformity, length and mobility.

10. Spine: check for deformity, body length appropriate to breed; watch for range of motion.

11. Abdomen: check the skin color, which should be pinkish. Pallor can be indicative of internal trauma or hemorrhaging; check umbilicus for signs of infection (swelling or discharge).

12. Chest: listen carefully for breathing difficulties; check nursing ability, muscle tone and activity level.

13. Rectum: check for redness, swelling, diarrhea (which could be signs of infection, overeating or environmental sensitivity). Observe the dam for signs of excessive attention.

14. Genitalia: check appearance and position; watch for inflammation from excessive maternal attention or inappropriate sibling nursing.
The Origin Of The Lab

There are many theories as to the origin of the breed known today as the Labrador Retriever. One point on which all historians seem to agree is that the Labrador originally came from Newfoundland. They were known by several names like the St. John’s Water Dog, the Little Newfoundlander and the Black Water Dog, before officially being dubbed the Labrador Retriever.
Some believe that the Labrador was developed by the fishermen off the coast of Newfoundland and that he was the result of an attempt to scale down the Newfoundland dog. In other words, they wanted to produce a somewhat smaller dog because the Newfoundlands were a bit cumbersome.
The dog had to be a good retriever. He also had to have good bone and strong limbs to pull heavy loads. He needed a dense coat thick enough to withstand the cold water, but one that would not ball up with ice. He had to be eager to please, able to swim great distances and happy to live on a diet of fish and whatever else could be scrounged up. The Labrador became that dog.
The Natural Instinct Of A Labrador

The Labrador Retriever was developed by sportsmen to work in the field and retrieve game. Luckily the breed evolved quite naturally, with improvements being made by educated selection from within the breed itself, rather than the “quick fix” of an out-cross to a breed with desirable qualities. This has yielded an overall steadiness to the inheritance patterns of the Labrador’s temperament and structure (conformation).
This steadiness enhances the quality of the average specimen, which means that with rare exception, today’s typical Labrador Retriever will be able to perform the task he was originally bred for, whether ever asked to do this or not.
The overall quality of the average breed is the best indicator of the condition of a breed. A quality Labrador should be endowed with an instinct to retrieve and a conformation that allows the dog to fulfill his working potential effortlessly. Such work requires a strong dog with staying power.
The Labrador Retriever must be able to work long and hard, running in overgrown terrain, swimming in turbulent waters, and carrying a downed bird for long distances. The compact, well-balanced body of the Labrador enables him to fulfill his purpose by design.
The Great Labrador

The Labrador Retriever’s keen sense of smell and ability to train have earned him a place in many police and military forces around the world. During World War II, Labrador Retrievers were used throughout Europe to scout fields for undetected land mines. They were credited with many finds and exhibited a stick-to-it-iveness not found in other breeds that were tested for the job. They have also been trained as messengers to cover terrain that is all but impassable by man.
Many municipalities currently employ the services of skilled Labrador police dogs. They are primarily called upon for scent-discrimination details, such as tracking criminals in buildings or detecting hidden narcotics, weapons, and bombs. Once a substance has been detected, the dog does not retrieve the material unless specifically ordered by his master, but rather indicates the location to his trainer. This is to insure against possible injury to the dog.
Labrador Retriever Coat Color Inheritance

There are three acceptable coat colors in the Labrador retriever: black, yellow (with variation from fox-red to light cream), and chocolate. Black is the most common color, but the numbers of yellows and chocolates are on the rise.
Coat color is determined by the type of genes received from each of the parents. Black is the dominant color genetically. Simply put, if there is a black gene present in the dog’s makeup, the dog will be black. A yellow coat is produced when a dog receives a recessive gene for this color from both of its parents. In the absence of a dominant black gene, the recessive genes can be expressed. Because of this, a black dog can produce yellow or chocolate offspring if it carries both a dominant black gene and a hidden recessive.
The chocolate color is also a recessive, but many variables come into play regarding the inheritance pattern of this color. The recessive chocolate factor can be carried by both black and yellow labradors. There may also be a crossover or modifying effect involved with the chocolate recessive, because in several generations of breeding chocolate to chocolate a breakdown in pigmentation, eye coloring, and overall coat color often occurs.
How to Stop A Dog Fight

labradors usually will not start a fight, bit if another dog starts one your dog will certainly defend himself. Stud dogs often fight one another, and some dogs become jealous of their owner to the point of fighting any dog that comes near the house or car.
It is dangerous to try stopping a dog fight. While fighting, the dogs are emotionally out of control and may bite a person at this time. It is no use shouting at them to stop and you should not try to separate them, as the dogs are generally stronger than you are. The most effective way to stop a fight is a pail or two of water dumped on them or best of all a hose with spray nozzle attached and the water turned on full force.
Since fights often happen near the house, it might be wise to keep a hose in readiness if you have the bad luck of possessing any dogs that do not get along together. labradors are not at all of mean temperament, and they are certainly not bred to be fighters. However, certain dogs (male or female) may form dislikes and it is usually rather hopeless to attempt reconciliations and more practical to prevent encounters which can lead to fighting.
Feeding Your Older Lab

Keep in mind that as your Labrador ages, he will need less food to maintain a constant weight. With elderly dogs it is important to cut back on the amount of protein (particularly meat) that is ingested, because high levels of protein can put a strain on the kidneys.
Overweight dogs should be brought back into their ideal weight, primarily through gradually increasing the amount of their daily exercise. Cut back on the number of calories in the dog’s diet by substituting low-calorie fillers such as grated carrot or apples, unsalted popcorn, or low-fat cottage cheese for a portion of their meal.
Underweight dogs can be brought up to a good weight by adding high-calorie boosters to their meals, such as an occasional raw egg, cheese, or hamburger. Such caloric supplementation may also be needed during the winter if your Labrador is kenneled or worked outside much of the time, and during peak working periods when extra calories are burned. A high-calorie supplement can be purchased from your vet, pet stores, and online catalogs.
Choosing Healthy Treats For Your Labrador Retriever


Put table scraps where they belong, in the garbage, not in your dog’s food bowl. Many people think that giving your Lab that nice chunk of fat from their sirloin will add luster to his coat. While it may put joy in his heart, it may also give him loose bowels. An occasional veal bone, if very sturdy (a knuckle, for example), can give him a tooth cleaning and some jaw exercise, but be careful, since most bones are constipating as well as dangerous (an ingested splinter of bone can be fatal).
Nylon or rawhide “bones” are safest. They are available in most pet stores, groceries, supermarkets, and online. If you want to give your dog more than his everyday food (even though dogs generally do not get bored with their meals, unlike humans), try small amounts of fruits, cereal, and vegetables. They do not upset the intestinal tract by their oiliness or indigestibility, and actually promote effective digestion. You may also try well-trimmed (no visible fat) bits of meat. However, a dog raised on snacks of sirloin tips will not take kindly to a change to vegetables, so pursue this course with considerable caution.




Labrador behaviour

Dealing with Anti-Social Behavior

In most owner-pet relationships, the owners see their dog as far more than a simple possession. Any Antisocial behavior that develops is often tolerated, partly because the owners couldn't contemplate the loss of the dog and partly because they feel the problem is due to some failure on their part. Understanding these problems is a big step towards solving them. The main kinds of problem are:

    * Aggression
    * Separation behavior
    * Phobia due to loud noises
    * Barking
    * Mounting
    * Urine marking

The dog which bites One of the worst aspects of aggression in dogs is the danger of their biting people. Although dogs can be trained to attack on command, this is thankfully a rare occurrence. Usually, such dogs are trained to grab and hold the arm of their victim rather than to truly bite and savage. Luckily, most dog bites are minor ones. Statistics show they are most often inflicted on children, away from home. This implies that at least part of the reason may be a child's inexperience in interpreting the warning signs, or even provocation. Most accidental dog bites are probably due to territorial, protective or defensive aggression. Any of these may be caused by a stranger.

What to do: It is very important to warn children not to run up to strange dogs and not to extend their fingers towards them, but to offer a clenched fist if the dog is friendly. For how to deal with different types of aggression in terms of corrective training. Training is ineffectual when a dog is frightened and in pain. If the dog is threatening to bite because it has been in a road accident or a fight and is hurt, handle it carefully with slow, calm movements and use a soothing voice.

 

Separation-induced behavior This is most often seen in puppies when they move to their new home . It can also occur in adult dogs whose behavior was not properly controlled during puppyhood and in adult dogs who have a change of owner. This may cause a feeling of distress and insecurity in a dog and the effect is over-dependency on humans.

What to do: You should try to reduce your dog's dependency on yourself and your family. Pet the dog on your return from absence, but don't make any farewells when you leave. Try also to reduce the amount of contact between you and your dog when you're at home.

 

Noise phobias Phobic problems in dogs develop from an early age. Most are linked in some way to loud noises, ranging from gunshots to car sounds, fireworks and thunder. Sometimes, a noise becomes linked in the dog's mind to another feature associated with it, so that a fear response to thunder may lead to a fear of all the other aspects of a storm such as lightning, rain and wind. Sometimes telephone bells, vacuum cleaners and hair-dryers can trigger these fearful responses. Generally, these problems are associated either with a traumatic event or with fear of the unknown. As the dog gets older, they become generalized.

What to do: It is important to notice any fear reactions in your young dog and try to allay the fear before phobias develop. Use the desensitization technique if possible. If your dog panics on firework night, put it in a quiet, dark room and ask your vet to prescribe a sedative the next time there are fireworks.

 

Mounting This is an annoying problem and can be embarrassing. It is most often seen in small, young dogs such as poodles and terriers. The behavior is usually directed at people, often children, although some dogs often choose objects such as cushions. The development of this behavior is abnormal, since most dogs have a low sex drive. If the problem does occur, it is usually at puberty.

What to do: The solution is firm physical rejection and a sharp "NO". If the dog persists, reject and ignore it for a while. Keep your dog away from bitches on heat. Don't rush into having your dog castrated. Mounting behavior. Will often stop once the dog is mature and your vet may help with temporary hormone medication

 

Urination problems A dog may get carried away with the business of scent-marking and masking other smells and begin urinating in the house to cover scents like perfume or tobacco. The urine of a bitch on heat contains strong odors, particularly pheromones, which excite the male and indicate her availability. Unfortunately, certain perfumes and aftershaves designed for humans also contain pheromones and these may lead to further problems in the dog, causing inappropriate urination in the house.

What to do: Removal of the cause (the scent which triggers the problem) is the first step. Ignore the dog if it continues urinating in the house; reward it if it behaves well. If necessary, use a reprimand. Failure to solve the problem may necessitate going back to the early stages of house-training








Dealing with Car Sickness

If your dog suffers from car sickness, it can make transportation a real challenge. A simple trip to the vets office can be very stressful to you and your dog. The goal of this short guide is to tell you how to condition your dog to avoid car sickness. Yellow Lab in Car

 

A Few Facts:

    * Car sickness is motion sickness.
    * Motion sickness can be caused by a few factors, but primarily by movement in the inner ear.
    * Characteristics of car sickness can be vomiting, excessive salivation, yawning, whining, uneasiness, and even diarrhea in extreme cases.
    * Conditioning the dog to the vehicle can be effective at reducing or eliminating car sickness.

 

 

Guidelines:

Start the guidelines at a point considerably before the onset of the signs of car sickness. In other words, if your dog is showing any of the signs above you are pushing too far ahead. Throughout these guidelines acting relaxed and calm is important.

    * Day one, take your dog to the car and give him praise, then call it a day.
    * The next day open the car door, give praise and call it a day.
    * The next day put your dog in the car, praise and call it a day.
    * The next day start the car, praise the dog and call it a day.
    * The next day move the car a short distance.
    * Continue increasing the distance until you get your dog past the point where he usually would have started showing his usual signs of carsickness.

 

Just like many things with your dog, repetition is a neccesity. Eventually your dog will be able to ride in the car with no car sickness problems at all.

 Dealing with your Labrador's Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety can be a real challenge to deal with. It can cause all sorts of destructive behavior and is never desirable for your dog. The following are some tips and strategies to use to reduce separation anxiety.

 

 

Some facts about dogs and separation anxiety:

    * Wild dogs live in a group that is together 365 days a year and 24 hours a day.
    * Dogs are not designed to be alone.
    * Depending on the individual dog, he probably has some level of separation anxiety.

For some owners that means their dog would rather have company then to be left alone. For other owners this could mean that the dog has chewed up everything in the home and soiled on every conceivable inch of it.

 

Guidelines:

    * Make coming and going very low keyed. Highly emotional homecomings and departures can instill feelings in your dog that being alone is a bad thing.
    * Give your dog a feeling that there is a reason why he is being left behind. Use the dog’s name, the word “okay” and sound very expectant in a phrase as you leave. The phrase must be positive (You be good! is not a positive phrase). A good example of a phrase to use is “Watch the house Cheese Steak, Okay?.” This will leave the dog with the feeling something is expected of him and give him a sense of purpose to why he is staying behind.
    * When leaving try to have calm body language and a gentle tone of voice. You don't want to cue the dog that he should be worried by your body language. You are running late and stressed and that leaves you dog w/a feeling he should worry. Move slowly so as not to enact a flee response.
    * Never punish after the fact! This quite possibly will create, or already has created a behavioral problem.
    * Never intentionally make the dog excited when he is allowed to leave the house.
    * Your dog should have something appropriate to chew upon when you are gone. Chewing can be a tension releaser. When your dog is stressed over your not being home (or any reason), he can release that stress by chewing on something you provided him.

Tips for Bringing Home a New Baby to Your Lab

 

First of all I want to say CONGRATULATIONS! The fact that you are reading this article probably means that you have a little one coming soon. Having a baby is probably the most joyous experience a parent can have. The purpose of this article is to help make sure your dog can share in your joy by welcoming the new member of the family.Yellow Labs with Baby

 

Before you bring the baby home:

    *

      Adjust your dog's schedule to the schedule he will be following when the baby comes home. If he goes out at 7 am now, but will be going out at 5 am when the baby comes home his schedule should change before the arrival. All aspects of his eventual scheduling changes should be adjusted well in advance.

    *

      Your dog should be used to the baby’s belongings. Changes to the baby’s room such as painting and new furnishings should be brought in sooner and not later.

    *

      Try to have household scents in the room. With a new paint job and new furnishings the room can have a lesser “pack” feel to it. A well used blanket or favorite recliner can bring draw this back. Try to spend time in the room in the weeks to come to future this.

    *

      Start bringing the baby’s scent home after childbirth. Soiled cloths and blankets should be brought home as soon as possible and before the baby’s arrival in the house. However you must prevent situations where you will have to correct your dog over these articles. If you don’t want him too close to these things, then keep them out of reach. You don’t want him to connect bad things with the new baby!

    *

      Reduce the attention your dog normally gets a week or more before your new baby's arrival. Reduce the attention far lower than he will receive after the baby comes home so he won’t feel he is competing for attention with the baby.




 History of the Labrador Retriever

Many authorities believe that the forebears of the Labrador Retrievers were produced in Newfoundland.  They also agree that the breed descended from the St. John's variety of water dog.  Attempts to further trace the history of the Labrador Retriever have failed or have yielded no strong proof.  Some believe they were brought to Newfoundland by the fishermen of Devon, when they first invaded and settled the land.   Others believe they originated in North America, and some even say they are of Asiatic descent.  The Labrador Retriever performed many useful services for the fishermen of Newfoundland, for example he could help gather up fishing nets and carry ropes between boats.  There are even stories of Labrador Retrievers saving crew members from drowning.
Yellow Labrador Retriever in the Snow Image courtesy of Pharaoh_Hound


The first Labrador was brought to England in the 1820s, but the breed's reputation had spread to England many years before.  The story goes, the Earl of Malmesbury saw a Labrador on a fishing boat and immediately made arrangements with certain traders to have some imported.  The Labradors so impressed the Earl with their genius for retrieving that he devoted his entire kennel to developing the breed.  It was not long before many others realized their worth and followed his example.   In their enthusiasm they gave little thought to keeping the breed pure.  However, the Malmesbury strain retained its purity for many years.   Eventually, a combination of the Newfoundland dog tax and the English quarantine laws brought importing to a standstill.  Interbreeding became necessary as a means of acquiring new blood.  In most cases this activity was restricted to the use of the curly coated and flat-coated retrievers and various breeds of water spaniels.   Due to the fact that the breed was very old, its characteristics remained predominant throughout.


In 1903, the Labrador was recognized by the English Kennel Club, but at that time no definite standard of the breed was agreed upon.   Fortunately for the breed, its followers were primarily interested in the development of working qualities.  Unhampered by a standard, they were able to continue their breeding schemes, which included occasional outcrosses, and were responsible for producing the multi-purpose dog that is our present-day Labrador Retriever.
According to some records, the Labrador's first appearance in the show ring took place as early 1860. Oddly enough, this was long before the breed received its official nod from the Kennel Club.  It is said that King George V had a great deal to do with awakening national interest in the breed.


Then as now, the majority of the Labrador's followers attributed little importance to success in the show ring.  They measured value by the ability to deliver in the field.  As a means of discerning their Labrador's respective merits, small groups of enthusiasts started to hold retriever trials in 1880.  Over a period of time, the interest and the entries grew considerably. As a result of this increased competition, breeders redoubled their efforts to refine and strengthen the Labrador's valuable qualities, each striving to outdo the other.  This healthy competition produced the strong foundation that is responsible for the proficient working ability of the breed today.


Americans knew little of the Labrador's true usefulness until after World War 1.  At that time they gradually began to be imported, but it was not until the middle 1930s that they gained any sort of widespread acclaim.  Retriever field trials were largely responsible for the rapid spread of the breed's popularity in the United States.  Once the Labrador had the chance to demonstrate his capabilities before the public, his reputation and numbers grew quickly.


The breed has made a highly successful trial record in the United States.  For example, during one 20-year period, Labradors placed first in 520 out of 637 trials open to all breeds of retrievers and Irish Water Spaniels.  They have gained the coveted title of National Retriever Champion for twelve out of the first sixteen years it was in existence.  Little known before the 1930s, the Labrador has already taken an unchallenged lead in the retriever field and today is steadily climbing climbing to a well-earned place among the country's leading breeds.

 
Labrador Retriever Personality

One of the reasons for the Lab's swift rise in popularity is that over the years he has consistently proved his worth in all fields and truly earned the title "all around" dog.  One of the most predominant characteristics of the Lab is a strong desire to learn.  This quality has done much to enhance the breed's popularity.  Coupled with a high degree of native intelligence, it equips the Lab to fulfill the roles of hunter, retriever, companion, pet and watchdog.  This desire to please makes the Lab a willing and eager pupil, a dog that enjoys learning and is a pleasure to teach.


 
By far the most exciting of the Lab's qualities is his inherent working ability.  This all-important factor has been maintained and strengthened over the years by careful and selective breeding.  So Strong is the Lab's natural inclination for retrieving that it is manifested when a puppy is still under three months old.


Another endearing characteristic of the breed is untiring devotion to people. Yellow Lab with Kids The Lab thrives on human company and companionship; he has the rare ability of being able to be everybody's friend and still maintain an undying allegiance to his master.  The lab has the uncanny and most admirable quality of being able to adapt himself to all sorts of situations and surrounding.  His devotion and patience make him a trusted playmate for children.  He joins in their games with enthusiasm and thoroughly enjoys what you and I would consider mauling.  At the same time, he is perfectly able to take care of himself by simply evacuating the area if things get to rough.  Somehow, in each instance the Lab seem to grasp almost instinctively what is desired and to willingly apply himself in that direction.


Few other breeds can match the Lab for perseverance and courage.   His reputation was founded on his ability to withstand the hardships of a day's shoot.  Whether it is retrieving ducks in icy water on a cold winter day or hunting pheasants in honeysuckle groves, hedgerows, briar patches, and other likely spots, the Lab performs his task like a trooper.  How much wounded game would have been lost if it were not for the Lab's excellent scenting powers and perseverance! Any duck hunter knows the trouble strong wounded game can cause, but the Lab does not give up.  Certain members of the breed have been known to carry on hot pursuit for over an hour.  


Origins of the Labrador Retriever

The Labrador breed is thought by some to have been developed by fishermen who needed helpers that were strong, good at retrieving and that had thick coats that were resistant to water and cold. It is thought that they come from Newfoundland and not Labrador. They were known by several names - St. John's Water Dog, the Little Newfoundlander & the Black Water Dog. In 1904, The Kennel Club (England) listed Labradors as a separate breed.



The Labrador Retreiver comes in three colors - Black, Chocolate & Yellow.  Yellow can be a lighter to darker yellow, but not reddish, as this would be a disqualification. The overall appearance should be that of an athletic, well balanced & solid looking dog.  A good Labrador wants to please & is easy to train.  They possess a keen sense of smell.



A good Labrador wants to please and is easy to train.  All these qualities make the Labrador the perfect hunting companion.  Labs are also known for their sweet, instantly friendly expression in their eyes.




 Choosing the Right Kennel for your Labrador

It is easier said than done! Boarding kennels are necessary evils for those of us who have dogs. Both good and bad kennels exist. There are always some dangers and pleasures associated with use of kennels; in this article, we will explore both.

 

Kinds of Kennels

 

Kennel operations vary tremendously. Many are outgrowths of a show or hunting hobby kennel with excess capacity, or someone seeking to make a dog hobby pay its way. At these kennels, you will find dog people and generally friendly reception. Other kennels are outgrowths of grooming or veterinary hospital facilities.

 

While both authors have more affinity with the show/hobby people, we have both separately concluded that groomers tend to have a way with dogs, large and small, rough or gentle. We tend to lean a little in their direction as kennel operators. We have also seen exceptional kennels run by retired veterinarians who missed their clients.

 

Finding a Vet for Your Labrador Retriever Puppy

One of the and most important and sometimes most difficult things dog owners must do is chose a vet. If you have had pets before or family and friends that have had pets, this is often done by referral. If you are new to the pet world, what do you do?

 

As with any important decision you s